Spiti valley....A blissful journey !!! ( Travelogue)

Spiti was on the top of our wish lists. We tried doing it in September 2012, but had to come back from Kalpa :(. Since then we were looking forward to out Spiti trip. And when we finally did it in August 2015, it was such a bliss. I do not have words to describe the peace that this place offers you. Although we didn't go there to find peace but the journey became spiritual discovery for us. We were happy. There was a smile on our faces, a smile that came from within.

The Travelers : Anuj ( main driver and my dear husband), Aditi ( almost six years old), Raghav(  3.5 years old) and Smita ( me the emergency driver)

The machine : Tata Safari 4x4 which is a family member.

Total kilometer travelled : 1683

Total days taken : 7

It was supposed to be a four days trip, but as we get to drive on world's most dangerous terrains we could drive not more than 200-250 kms a day. It was a break so much desired after almost two months of renovation work at home. As soon as Anuj asked me to go, I was more than ready. Packed got in touch with hivayking.in. Got help in planning itinerary and.... ready to go..

DAY 1  

Dehradun - Fagu ( 268 kms)

Route taken- Dehradun- Paonta Sahib- Nahan- Chandigarh- Shimla bypass- Fagu

We aimed for Rampur on first day. With kiddos its very difficult to leave at early morning but we could manage to leave home by 7 in morning. As soon as we started it started raining cats and dogs.

Reached Nahan and had our Breakfast.

Board advertising Hmachal Tourism

There we noticed that our tyres were bulging out. They were already worn and we 'd planned to change after the trip but now it was an emergency.

Got them changed at chandigarh. Strange it was that we didn't get any tyre shop between Nahan and Chandigarh. In this process we spent two to three hours extra. Left Chandigarh around 2 in after noon. We were still hopeful to reach Rampur. 

See what we got when we started climbing up for Shimla..

Heavy Fog and clouds on road

We got almost zero visibility on road and hence our speed got restricted to 10-20 km/h.

It was also raining in between. It was a beautiful view but we wanted to reach Rampur. After a while we started enjoying the nature! The fog the cloud and the rain. It becomes very risky to drive on hills during rain.

It was evening and it started becoming dark. We decided to stop at Fagu. Reached around 7-7.30 in evening. By the times Kids have given up. They allow us to drive only till they enjoy. Once they are tired or bored, they make sure we take a break.

Very Spacious and comfortable Hotel

We stayed at The Apple Blossom Resort. It is Himachal Tourism development corporations' property. I recommend you to stay here. The location is so beautiful. We get amazing view from window, provided weather is clear.

We had tummy full of yummy dinner ( we get room service). And slept peacefully.

DAY 2

Fagu-Pooh ( Around 265 Kms)

Route taken - Fagu- Synge- Rampur- Pooh

We started at 8'o clock from fagu. Found heavy cloud and fog on the way.

Then it was beautiful Sutluj Valley. Greenery all around. 

The mighty river was flowing with such a pride and carelessness. I have to flow come what may!

Wherever you look its beautiful! When you drive on such road you just want stop and watch the greenery, the beauty around. But we had to reach a destination. 

Curls and curves of the road!

The official Gate of Kinnaur!

The nature has also made a gate for entry in Kinnaur.

These are gates to the most beautiful place on this earth. These gates leas us to Sangla valley Chitkul and Kalpa and of course Spiti valley.

We'd already gone to Sarhan, Chitkul and Kalpa so we aimed straight ahead to Pooh. We wanted to reach Tabo but by afternoon reaching Pooh became very difficult.

When we were in such a serene place , ek photo session to banta hai..

See the happiness on the face!

Local people say that if you wish to make your trip successful you must stop at Taranda mata Temple and prey. This temple is maintained by BRO. We took a short break to say thanks to Mata Taranda

Once you enter Kinnaur, the roads are nothing just adrenaline rush. 

You keep driving along with hundreds of feet steep valley!

The roads were washed off around Wangtu, so routes were diverted. And to amaze us we got a steep climb of a single lane ( thinnest possible road) road. There was a big jam on it. Somewhere there was no road at all. We passed through this and broke our safety plate of Safari

Luckily got a local repair shop. Kids used opportunity to roam around.

We asked locals for road ahead. They said very good road no worries...

It was getting dark and we were in dilemma to go ahead or stay at rekong pio. After getting confidence from locals we decided to head towards Pooh.

And we realized that it was such a bad decision. The roads were almost non existent. Somewhere we found roads. We saw this board and its true! 

And we were driving in night. There were no town to be seen for hours. Finally we got good road. And we saw some lights on mountains. It gave us such a hope. 

Reached Pooh around nine'o clock in the evening. There was only hotel in the town. Thanks to central hotel desk   we got a room in fully packed hotel. We realized we were so hungry when we hogged upon dinner. The Om hotel had very beautiful dining room.

And to our surprise! our phones stopped working. In spiti we have got on BSNL network. And to get signals of that too is a gift. We were tired so slept very nicely. Next morning when we got up and went to the dining room upstairs, it was like OMG ! this place is so beautiful. 

We met many interesting people at Om hotel. One of them clicked our photo! Met a group from Pune who were riding bicycles. We kept meeting them again and again through our trip.

Day 3 

Pooh- Tabo ( only 90 kms)

Route taken- Pooh- Nako- Tabo

We started early morning after breakfast. The geography has changed totally. From lush green scenery to rain shadow area. I was small journey we thought. we found igloo made for Army officer in a camp near Pooh

After Pooh, it was a different world. No sight of human beings, animal even vehicles for miles. Still we felt safe and happy! In between we spotted few bikers but other wise on road mountains and us!

                                                                       Group of bikers

And we were reminded existence of humanity when we saw road widening/construction works going on. They were blasting rocks so we got to wait a lot at many places. But watching JCB and cranes is never boring for all of us! Specially for Raghav it becomes a treat!

Once we crossed this we started climbing up. And saw mountains of different shades. Blue sky with scattered clouds. Those clouds shadowing little parts of mountain and of course Spiti river with us.

We spotted a vehicle!

The green patches we can spot are apple orchids and that means we have a human establishment.

Finally around 1'o clock we reached Nako village.

We asked people that what is there to see, they directed us towards lake. By the time both Chiya and Raghav were becoming anxious. They wanted to see something. 

And we did get the fruit for our long long drive. The lake was calm so calm that it reflected everything. We had to walk a while to reach it. It was getting water from a stream. Now kids wanted to throw stones in lake. Throwing stone in lake would disturb its peace so we asked them to build a dam on stream. And my team was so dedicated to it.

We found one more very very beautiful thing. Kids became fond of it.

We left Nako. Nako also has a helipad

 Nako Village

 The Helipad

We left Nako in afternoon for Tabo. We were little hungry but couldn't find proper place to park Safari. So we decided to have it at next stop. Here are few clicks between Nako and Tabo

Finally we reached Tabo around 4.30 in afternoon. And we were so so hungry. We searched for lunch which was over everywhere. Reached the monastery and found food which was heavenly delicious!

Tabo Monastery is oldest one in Himalayas.

The best part was the food!

Happiness on face after lunch!

Few clicks of us having fun in monastery

We decided to stay in Tabo that day and got a very pleasant stay at Hotel Tow Dhey. The best part was there was no mobile signal, no TV and not even electricity to watch movies on laptop. So all we had was us! We were forced to talk to each other. Kids are easy to adapt, so they invented new games to play. And it was so peaceful!

Next morning we were ready for next ride!

Day 4

Tabo- Kaza ( around 120 Kms)

Route taken Tabo- Dhankar Monastery- Pin valley- Kaza

So day 4 was the day when we had list of places to visit and see. Dhankar Monastery is very famous because of Dalai Lama. Dhankar is a world monument. Its a fort on a cliff of Mountain. From Dhankar Gompa we get a spectacular view of confluence of Pin and Spiti river.

we saw the caves where Lamas use to meditate. Gompa has peace all around where even people like us can sit and meditate.

 Entry Gate of Dhankar village

 The white spots are actually buildings on cliff!

 Water Wheel

 Dhankar Village

Dhankar Gompa

The most difficult task was to take a U turn and park our Safari

Inside Gompa

Confluence of Pin and Spiti rivers

After spending a very quality time at Dhankar we headed towards Pin Valley. We had to go a little off route to see pin valley. The last village where road ends is Mud. It started raining when went there. As rains are not expected there it was a surprise. We had lunch at Mud. Garam Garam Daal chawal was more than welcome!

On the way to Kaza we spotted structures made by wind/snow erosion

 Thats our Hero!

Took a break here for kids to roam around.

When we were approaching kaza, it was raining heavily there and we could capture it too!

Reached Kaza in evening and it was raining heavily. We waited for a while and it stopped. We found world's highest filling station!

Kaza Gompa

we decided to stay in city only so we checked in to Hotel Winter White. And there in 'Winter White', we got WiFi !! :):) Signals were weak but still!

 Day 5 

Kaza - Kibber - Ke Monastery- Langza- Komic - Losar- kaza (Around 111 Kms)
This was the most happening day of our trip. We drove to highest motorable village. Met the cycle gang once again. Got confused. And saw completely new geographical wonder.
First of all we drove to Kibber. The views were breathtaking.

 Spot the safari parked!

After Kibber we drove to Ke Monastery. Ke Gompa was so beautiful. Its feels so proud to be human when we see such beautiful structures at such difficult geographical locations.

I request everyone to visit this Gompa. No only because of beauty, but the culture. The monks there were so friendly. We got free complimentary tea too!
Thereafter we started for Langza village. I have travelled so much in mountains, but this was altogether a new discovery for me. We climbed up and up and up and then we found a plane area where a small village was located.

 Langza Village @ 4270 mtrs

 Langza @4270 mtrs
Langza is also famous for fossils of sea animals. The beauty of this place was so attracting that kids refused to leave. The snow clad mountain peaks were looking very close so the wanted to climb up.
They were running here and there but we were not able to catch them. It was very high altitude and we were loosing breath when we ran after them.
Finally they settled down for a small photo session

We headed towards Komik. Komik was very very interesting place. The monks offered us tea and buiscuits. Inside the Gompa, senior Monk became so happy to see kids. He wanted to have a long chat with kids. He gave them jelly too!

From komik our journey was a little adventurous. We decided to go back through new route. All the other vehicles ( please read only one) went back through the same route they took to come to Komic. We got some information from Monks there and they assured us that there wont be any trouble. So we started. And it was the only vehicle on the route. There was no road. At some portion road work was going on so there were few labourers working and they had totally no clue.
And we were also getting a little impatient that where are heading towards? We were going upwards and upwards. Finally we found this and were so happy that now we will definitely see a human being!

Finally we saw a shepherd and asked him about the route. He was coming from Pin valley and he confirmed that we are on correct path.
We were on the roof of world!

The started the steep road to the valley. We started getting down and we fond a tractor horizontally parked blocking the road in our way! There was no view of its driver. Now what to do! We waited for a while. Honked a lot so that anyone around would come to help us. Then finally got down It was almost six in evening and there going back was out of the question. We decided to take risk. Very cautiously and slowly took our safari out with one big scratch on it. But finally we were able to move.
Came back to the hotel. Because of high altitude I got headache but kids were super happy. They wanted to have dinner outside. So we went walking to the market. We took a short cut shown to us by local boy. We had amazing dinner. While coming back there was a power cut. So it was all dark around. And in the darkness we lost our way to hotel. Thankfully a military jeep helped us and dropped us to the hotel. And we slept....

Day 6 
 Kaza- Kunjum La- Cahndrataal

We bid adieu to Kaza and started towards Kunjum La. To go to Chandra taal or not was still a dilemma. So we will decide only after seeing the road conditions. I was not very confident of staying in tent with kids. We started early. We gave lift to two female monks. They were talkative. They told us many stories and facts about the area. The view as usual were very beautiful.

There were so unusual shapes made by nature. People made these at may places and we are supposed to take a round and go.

We reached Kunjum la around noon. It was a sunny and windy day. Kunjum la was trat to eyes. With snow clad mountains around.

We decided in favour of chandrataal. And it was such a nice decision. After diversion for Chandrataal, there was no road. It was tyre mark which we had to follow. With Chenab on one side and mountains on other, our journey was more of curiosity as where are we going? what are we going to see? 

Finally we reached camp side of Chandratal.

We were so very happy to see establishment there. It was unbelievable to find so many people there. Chandrataal was a trek of almost 3 kms. We asked kids and they were happy. The said yes lets go!

It was around 3'o clock in afternoon we started. And it was one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited.

As soon as sun said bye to us the place became chilling and windy! It became so cold that kids refused to walk!! Then what to do.. We carried them on shoulder almost 3 kms up to the parking place. It was an experience in itself.

Then we retied to Tanzen camps. The camps were cozy, clean and warm. Owner was very friendly. He helped Aditi and Raghav to make their own tents.

We got Daal Chawal as dinner which tasted heavenly! I could not sleep because there was a gang of tourists having fun whole night. But thats what camping is all about.

Day 7

Chandrataal- Rohtang pass- Manali.

It started drizzling in the morning so we quickly packed and left the camp side.  Otherwise roads will become challenging in rains. This was the toughest day of our journey. As there were no roads at all! River was flowing on road itself. There were so many water crossings and big pointed stones on road.

And we got our rear tyre punctured!! With a flat tyre just aside of a waterfall on road we were ready to make a traffic Jam. It was raining too! For first half an hour we thought of getting some help but then saw everyone to pass without even slowing down. So gathered all our courage and changed the tyre on such a sloppy road. It took us almost an hour. Kids supported us. They did not shouted nor did they fight. They understood that they need to behave and they were happy making stories related to waterfall. The waterfall helped us a lot in washing our cloths. 

We crossed Rohtang pass and was in Manali. We realized it to see the lush green valley!

It was very foggy and cloudy. We stayed in Hotel Iceland. It was such a nice cozy property with amazing view. All our tiredness was gone once we entered the room. Kids got TV!!! They were so happy to see it after 6 days.

Day 8 

Manali -Dehradun ( Around 446 km)

This was the last day of our journey. We started around 12 pm and reached home around 3 am next morning. Both of us drove continuously. It was raining most of the places. Finally reached home sweet home.